Looking for Fair Valuation advice on 1/1 and 3/3 cards

[elbsportscards]

Hi All,

New here and posting in this section as the section title contained "Ask Members For Help" so if in wrong place, please move to correct section.

Coming back to the hobby after 15 years, many things have changed, especially the onslaught of 1/1 and 3/3 insert cards. I have Beckett online pricing subscription, but many of the 1/1 and 3/3 cards do not make it to this service as well as they may fall off the eBay closed list as time goes by so making it even harder to gauge newly pulled cards.

My question to the members is more of what your opinion is on the following exercise.

When you pull a 1/1 or 3/3 card out of a pack. You look but don't see a comparable card on eBay or listed pricing in Beckett for it. You do see in Beckett that a 5/5 insert for that same set is listed as going for 2.5x to 5x. With that information only, how would you initially give yourself an estimated "Fair Value" for the worth of the 1/1 or 3/3 card you just pulled (Note: the card is not one of the hot stars of the week for this exercise).

Remember, as most of the time this 1/1 or 3/3 card would be an insert of a player who is common, semi-star or unlisted star and these types are primary the types I would like to focus on in this exercise.

I would also like to see valuation multiplies of opinions for the difference between valuation on Auto Card, Mem Card and Auto-Mem Card for example.

I understand that estimated "Fair Value" and what someone will pay for it (like eBay) are not the same thing, so I am only looking for your reasoning on "Fair Value" for pulling the card out of a pack.

Pretend there was no eBay, go back to the days where LCS, collector meetings, card shows, etc. where your only avenue to sell your cards. Now, before you walk up to a table to show your 1/1 and 3/3 cards, you will want to have some sense of "Fair Value" of your not listed card in your head to gauge where you will start your negotiations with the person.

With the above in mind, I look forward to hearing different opinions and point of views on this matter and hopefully it will be of use also to other newcomers to this day and age of card collecting/selling.

Thank you for your insight,

Ed B.

[revghost]

It really depends on the product and the player. eBay is just about worthless in regards to 1/1s as completed listings are quite rangey. One note, nonauto 1/1s, such as printing plates, don't pull the same weight as 1/1 refractor/colored border/gu/auto typically. If you're wanting to move them, be prepared for lowball sub $100 offers on commons. Since 1/1s are typically case hits, I'd want to get a dollar amount close to the current case cost.

[revghost]

Correction: I'd look to get a third of the case cost. As for multipliers, that's gonna require a lot of math with a terribly wide range of variables.

[elbsportscards]

It really depends on the product and the player. eBay is just about worthless in regards to 1/1s as completed listings are quite rangey. One note, nonauto 1/1s, such as printing plates, don't pull the same weight as 1/1 refractor/colored border/gu/auto typically. If you're wanting to move them, be prepared for lowball sub $100 offers on commons. Since 1/1s are typically case hits, I'd want to get a dollar amount close to the current case cost.

Correction: I'd look to get a third of the case cost. As for multipliers, that's gonna require a lot of math with a terribly wide range of variables.

Thanks revghost, That's a good thought about using a third of the case cost to give a rough starting point for "Fair Value" for 1/1s. From there we can move up or down relative to our impression of other factors you mentioned of the classification of the player (common, semi-star, unlisted, star) and the type of insert.

[revghost]

You bet, bud.